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Day 46: Calvi - Nice - Cagnes sur Mer - Vence 35 km
The ferry arrives at half past four in Nice. Over the Promenade des Anglais, the great
boulevard, I cycle out of Nice, and I continue over the broad road to Cagnes sur Mer.
From there inland to the camping of Vence.
Day 47: Vence - Col de Vence (963 m) - Coursegoules - Roquestéron - Col de St Raphaël ( 876 m) - Entrevaux - Annot 100 km
North of Vence the mountains of the Alpes Maritimes start. I start the day by cycling up
to the Col de Vence, a famous col of the annual Paris - Nice ride. The bare, weathered
mountains around me suggest that I am in high mountain areas but a simple glance back
gives views of the sea. The climb is a popular one. Sometimes I am caught up by racing cyclists.
The climb to the Col de Vence is pretty even and I am on the pass before I actually realize.
From here the road remains on more or less the same elevation. The road turns around a mountain
ridge and I have great views on the bare mountains of the Jérusalem and the Cime du
Cheiron, mountains of nearly 1800 meters altitude. The view of the mountains and the village
of Coursegoules is pretty fantastic. It is a remarkably rugged mountainous landscape in
which I find myself now. These surprises are the pleasant surprises of a cycling journey like this.
I visit the village of Coursegoules and continue on my way to the north. I pass the pretty
village of Bézaudun-les-Alpes and now I find myself in a stunning green landscape. I
am still at about 1000 meters and far below me lies the valley of the Esteron. Behind the
valley at least four rows of mountain chains are visible. Each chain is higher than the chain
before. The farthest mountain ridges are the mountains of the Parc National du Mercantour,
mountains of up to 3000 meter elevation. The road follows the course of the Esteron and remains
far above the valley for a long time.
For at least an hour I experience the great balkony views over a sea of green hills and
mountains and valleys. Then the road sinks towards the village Roquestéron.
Now I have lost altitude and I have to climb back into the mountains. Again I climb
high above the valley through the intensely green landscape. Coming from the south,
the landscapes tend to get fresher and greener every day. Beyond the village of Sigale I
pass a narrow rock crevice and abruptly I am on a bare, weathered plateau. I cross the
plains and climb over the Col The St Raphaël. During the descent into the valley of the Var
I find myself in an exuberantly green landscape again. I follow the valley of the Var to the
west and pass the beautiful medieval town of Entrevaux. As I walk through the old streets,
I see a front of a towering cumulus clouds coming from the north. I know that there will
be no escape. It is fifteen kilometers to the first camping in Annot from here. I take my
bike and cycle as hard as I can. The sky is black and the mountains in the north are
constantly bombarded with lightning strikes. I am riding at the top of my velocity continuously.
Just before Annot the sky breaks open and huge water masses are being poured down
over the Earth. I am hiding close to the Syndicat d'Initiative and ask where the camping is.
It is only one kilometer from here. I take a sprint to the camping and pitch my tent in
five minutes. The rest of the afternoon I hide in the guest room of the camping,
where camping guests walk in and out. There are many sport climbers in the camp,
they have northing to do either now. At six o'clock the front has passed and it is clearing
up now. I visit the cozy little town of Annot and buy stuff to cook. The bad weather
is definitely over now. As I will be cycling in the high mountains tomorrow, the weather
will probably be good again.
Day 48: Annot - Col de la Colle St Michel (1431 m) - Colmar - Allos - Col d'Allos (2247 m) - Barcelonnette 82 km
It is my intention today to ride to Barcelonnette today. There are two passes that need to be
crossed: the Col de la Colle St Michel and the Col d'Allos. The climb to the Col de
la Colle St Michel goes up evenly, like most climbs in France. Usually the climbs
in France are much easier than climbs of comparable altitude difference in Italy. The climbs
are never steeper than 13 or 14% in France and usually the climbs are regular. That applies even
to the highest passes of the French Alps. After three weeks of cycling on the steep, uneven pathways
of Italy under hot conditions, the roads in France are smooth and never too steep.
Especially since the temperatures are pleasant here. Not too hot, not too cold.
Today the sun is shines abundantly. After the climb to the Col de la Colle St Michel I descend
to the valley of the Verdon. I pass some beautiful towns like Beauvezer and Colmars before I reach
Allos. Here starts the climb to the Col d'Allos. I pass the unattractive ski resort of
La Foux d'Allos and climb above the tree line. Not much later I am on the pass. The descent
to Barcelonnette is steep and tricky, on a narrow road with blind corners and occasional
steep precipices. It is still early in the afternoon as I reach Barcelonnette. Here I find a campsite.
There is not much use in continuing today; I will stay here.
Day 49: Barcelonette - Jausiers - Col de Vars (2109 m) - Vars - Guillestre - Briançon - Col du Lautaret (2058 m) - La Grave - Bourg d'Oisans 157 km
My friends Jeroen and Willem are staying at the campsite of Bourg d'Oisans. The plan
is to get there today or tomorrow. We will spend a few days together. I doubt if I
will do an attempt to cover the distance to Bourg d'Oisans in one or in two days. There
are two passes between Barcelonnette and Bourg d'Oisans: the Col de Vars and the Col
du Lautaret, both are a bit higher than two thousand meters. Besides the altimeters there
are also horizontal kilometers to be covered, probably between 150 and 160 kilometers.
I will not decide, we will see what happens. After a long flat ride over Jausiers and St Paul
I climb to the Col de Vars, a surprisingly beautiful ascent. Not as beautiful as the nearby,
extremely challenging and much higher Col du Parpaillon, but very beautiful nonetheless.
The climb is surprisingly light. I reach the pass and descend to Guillestre, passing
some concrete dominated ski villages. Aesthetically more inspiring are the views over
the Ecrins massif with mountains up to four thousand meters altitude.
I reach Guillestre and the wide valley of the Durance. On the provincial road, the N94, I am
riding in the direction of Briançon. I do not have any views of the Ecrins massif anymore, the flanks
of the valley are blocking the views effectively. The road to Briançon climbs and descends all
the time, a small disappointment as I expected a flat road through the valley. But I have am lucky
to have a strong tail wind. After Briançon the road bends further and further to the west however
and more and more I have to face the strong wind. The last few kilometers to the pass I have straight head
wind. After more than one hundred twenty kilometers cycling, I am getting tired. In addition, I suffer from a
persistent cough. I experience that cycling long distances with a hard wind enhances the development of
the cold. Perhaps not a surprising conclusion but I have to dela woth the results anyway.
On the descent of the Lautaret, where I am riding sixty kilometers per hour through the head wind,
I feel like being completely blown through. It is already half past five and it is starting to
get a bit cold. In La Grave, I have wonderful views of the Meije, one of the most spectacular
mountains of the Alps with its steep dark cliffs and hanging glaciers. Beyond La Grave the road
follows a narrow gorge with huge rock walls to the left and to the right, with long cascades that splunges
several hundred meter down below on the rocks. The descent is long and beautiful; suddenly I reach
the wide valley of Bourg d'Oisans. A few flat kilometers away, I reach the campsite. Willem and
Jeroen have already preparde the meal.
Day 50: Bourg d'Oisans - La Bérarde - Bourg d'Oisans 70 km
The whole night it had rained cats and dogs but when we get up, it is dry. The mountains are still
wrapped up in clouds but the prevailing wind clears the clouds efficiently. Today we
want to cycle to the village of La Bérarde, high in the mountains of the Ecrins massif.
Willem and Jeroen have a road bike, I am riding on my heavy trekking bike. I have a bike with panniers
so I carry our rain gear. You never know in the high mountains. Within a short time however the
clouds are being washed away. The mountains on either side of the valley reach dazzling heights.
The views are supreme. There is no cloud in the sky as we reach La Bérarde. We take rest
for more than an hour to enjoy the beautiful views and we are having lunch in the meantime.
Then we cycle back to Bourg d'Oisans. In the descent, I have many problems because of my cold.
I have sneeze attacks all the time that will not get away and I feel weak and sick. I am a bit
worried as we have planned to cycle the Marmotte tomorrow, the famous road cycling circuit with
four big alpine cols: the Col du Glandon / Croix de Fer, the Télégraphe, the Galibier
and the Alpe d'Huez. If everything goes well.
Day 51: Bourg d'Oisans - Col du Glandon (1924 m) - Col de la Croix de Fer (2067 m) - St Jean de Maurienne - St Michel de Maurienne - Col du Télégraphe (1,566 m) - Valloire - Col du Galibier (2646 m) - La Grave - Alpe d'Huez (1820 m) - Bourg d'Oisans 193 km
I wake up bathing in sweat. Apparently I have had a mild fever. That seems be over now.
I feel better than yesterday anyway, although I have a runny nose constantly and lengthy
sneezing attacks. The Marmotte is something of a must-do among sports cyclists,
particularly among the climbers in the cycling world. A total of five thousand altitude
meters must be overcome. I decide to go along with the men, despite my unstable health.
I will after all not every day an opportunity for the Marmotte cycling but I realize that
it will be difficult. While cycling around with twenty kilograms less than on a cycling journey day,
I have still got a heavy bike with panniers plus wind jackets and a few chocolate bars and so
my bicycle will weigh probably ten kilograms heavier than my friends' road bikes. And it is
still a question how my cold will develop. On the climb to the Col du Glandon do I am not in a hurry.
As we ascend, the day awakes and the sun throws the first rays over the surrounding mountain
peaks. If we reach the lake, we are riding in the sunshine for the first time. The water in the lake
is ripple-free, the mountains are magically reflected ar the water surface. I take some pictures as
Willem and Jeroen are cycling before me.
I do not know whether the men will be waiting for me at the top of the Glandon or the
Croix de Fer. Since the Glandon is located right above me now, I take a look there first.
Nobody there. Quickly I terurn to the road and to the Croix de Fer. Not much later I
reach the pass and together we descend to Saint Jean de Maurienne. My cold gets another big boost
during the long descent with a lot of sneezing again. I have quite a problem on the
winding descent with numerous cracks in the road. An uncontrolled sneeze in a corner can be
dangerous. I try to avoid sneezing in a switchback but that means that I can only descend with
old wives' speed. I also suffer from an ear, where the pressure builds up during ascents as well
as during descents. Do I have an ear infection? I have no idea. As fast as I can but still very slow,
I go down. And again, the men have to wait a long time for me. I see that I have to earn some
goodwill and on the comparatively flat part to St Michel de Maurienne I am cycling ahead a lot of time.
I must pay for that during the climb to the Télégraphe, where the two men immediately take
off. During the whole climb I donot have the two men in sight. Moreover, I feel weak and
sick. It still goes, but this is taking a high toll. I give everything so that Jeroen and Willem
do not have to wait too long. The result is that I am dead tired when I reach the pass, while
Willem and Jeroen have had a good rest.
To my surprise, the Galibier is going quite well. We reach the top almost at the same time.
A long descent brings us back to Bourg d'Oisans. Through an unfortunate incident at a crossing
I am one hundred meters behind Willem and Jeroen. Because they are able to sit deep on their
road bikes while I am sitting in an upright position, I catch more wind and it proves to be
impossible for me to ride back to them with this strong head wind. As they take over and
help each other, I have to fight my own struggle thirty kilometers against the wind. Then
finally my chance comes. On a small climb in the downhill, I take a sprint and right at the top
I am able to catch up. But the damage is already done. I have made a major effort during the descent
while not a hundred per cent healthy. The first meters of the climb to the Alpe d'Huez are brutal.
What I have never experienced, is happening right now. My legs do not obey and I am practically
without speed. My legs are completely acidiced. Howeber slow I am, it takes alot of effort to just
go on. I sweat like an otter, although it is not that hot anymore. Again Willem and Jeroen
have left me on the first meters of the climb. To make matters worse, I have lost my
water supplies because the water bottle was not closed properly. One liter of water splunged
useless against the asphalt. I have less than half a liter of water to reach the Alpe d'Huez.
And I am already thirsty and moreover I am not particularly free of sweat. Now I cycle up as
slowly as possible to prevent excessive sweating. And of course, because I am too tired.
But as things really look bad, luck is on my side. The sun disappears behind the mountains.
My sweat stops and amazingly the thirst is released a bit. And, strange enough, the acidification
of my legs seems to be released a bit. I am going quite well now. It is not so far anymore.
I see that Jeroen is not so much in advance. Then, finally, I reach the Alpe. Willem and Jeroen
are waiting for me. It is cold now. I take our coats out of my panniers. So in the end I did not carry
my panniers for nothing! We drop down to Bourg d'Oisans. Mission accomplished. About the way that I suceeded,
I have some question marks. But still I am somewhat proud that I have achieved it, despite the
difficult circumstances.
Day 53: Bourg d'Oisans - Vizille - Grenoble - Col de Porte (1326 m) - St Pierre de Chartreuse 80 km
After a rest day I will travel back again to the Netherlands today. Willem and Jeroen accompany me
on the first kilometers. Through the valley of the Romanche we descend to the village Séchilienne.
Here we say goodbye. Willem and Jeroen will make a circle and return to Bourg d'Oisans, I will
cycle to Grenoble and subsequently enter the mountain massif of the Chartreuse. The road through the
Valley of the Romanche is too crowded for me and I leave the main road in Vizille. After a small
climb I descend into the city of Grenoble. Bad weather is coming in from the west. It is raining already
in the mountains of the Chartreuse and Vercors, on the other side of the broad valley.
I have reached the center of Grenoble at the moment that it starts raining. I find a shelter
for the rain but the most sinister types that I have seen in weeks, decide to take shelter at
the same spot. I am forced to leave and so I am soaked after all. This is not so good for my cold,
but I cannot change it anyhow. Now that I am already wet, I may as well continue. To reach the area of
the Chartreuse, I have to climb one thousand meters to the 1326 meter Col de Porte. After a few kilometers
climbing, it gets dry. A huge piece of luck, as I expected that it would rain for hours.
Anyway I had expexted it to be raining much harder. The weather remains gray during the climb,
but it strikes me how my cold is under these wet conditions. The ear drops also seem to work, the
pressure in my ear remains under control. I reach the pass where I see fresh and much heavier
showers coming my way. I descend and I arrive at the cozy camping of St Pierre de Chartreuse.
I quickly put my tent. An icy downpour breaks loose while I am anjoying a nice shower.
Day 54: St Pierre de Chartreuse - Col du Cucheron (1139 m) - St Pierre d'Entremont - Col du Granier (1134 m) - Chambéry - Aix-les-Bains - Chindrieux - Seyssel - Billiat - Champfromier - Chézéry Forens 145 km
The Chartreuse is a small area. The mountains are not nearly as high as for example the mountains
of the Ecrins. The highest mountains are slightly higher than two thousand meters. However, the
area with its impressive limestone cliffs has a very nice atmosphere, even as the weather is bad now.
All night it had been raining heavily but the showers have just passed away. Mist clouds
are clinging to the mountains. It is beautiful how the gray limestone cliffs risw above the mist
clouds. The forests on the flanks are lush and green, obviously it is raining frequently in
these areas. I am traveling northward across the Col du Cucheron and the Col du Granier.
St Pierre d'Entremont is the nicest village that I am experiencing in the Chartreuse
region but in fact all the villages are nice. After the Col du Granier begins the descent out of
the area. Idescend almost a thousand meters and I arrive in Chambéry. I have left the mountains
for good now. Chambéry is a surprisingly nice town with a beautiful old center. From Chambéry
to Aix-les-Bains I am riding raods that are too busy, too wide. I cannot find a nice route.
After Aix-les-Bains I am traveling on a quiet road along the Lac du Bourget, a thirty kilometers
long, between the foothills of the Alps. A striking sight are the cozy autumn colors that can be
seen on the flanks of the mountains. It is late August, a bit early for autumn leaves, probably
the drought of the last two months has caused this phenomenon. For the nature it is good that
so much rain has fallen yesterday. I travel on through flat and hilly terrains. In Seyssel
I cross the Rhône river and climb to a river terrace. I cycle over the flat terrace towards
the Jura. In the village of Billiat I meet a veteran cyclist who accompanies me. It is already late
but it is beautiful now with the evening sun. Together we climb the first ascent in the Jura. My
buddy leaves me in the camping of Chézéry-Forens. It is already after 8 o'clock. My cycling mate
will return to his home in the Rhône valley, while I am putting my tent. I am nearly alone at
the camping. It is clear now that the season really is over. After next weekend, the first camps will
already close.
Day 55: Chézéry Forens - Lélex - Mijoux - La Cure - Les Rousses - Chapelle des Bois - Foncine le Bas - Pic de l'Aigle - Doucier - Lac de Chalain 115 km
Beacuse I expect closure of campings and facilities soon, I prefer to bike long distances to avoid
being stuck. It will be ever lonelier from now on, whatsoever, now that the holiday season is over.
Another reason to ride long distances is to take advantage of the good weather, autumn can arrive any
time now. I intend to make a few detours in the Jura, especially if the weather remains as
good as it is now. I am on my way early. I am riding to the north and slowly the nature is
awakening. It is a lovely morning. The plants are covered with dew and the sun casts a brilliant light
on the mysterious nature. It is very quiet on the mountain roads. I am all alone. There are no more
tourists in this part of France. After a long but easy ascent, I reach the plateau landscape of
Haut-Jura. Vast plains are occasionally interrupted by long, sloping ridges. Beyond Les Rousses I want
to take a back road across one of the ridges. I choose the tiniest road possible. There is no
traffic and after a short, steep ascent I end up in a maze of lanes in a dense forest. At random
I cycle through the forest, hoping that I will get out. After an hour I am relieved as
I find out that I have cycled in the right direction. I leave the forest and I am in a big open
grassy plain near Chapelle des Bois. I cross another ridge and again I choose the smallest path
possible. This time the road becomes unpaved after a few kilometers. The dirt road begins
to fork in the middle of the woods and the branch that I choose, forks again. There are
no directions indicated. I wished that I had chosen a normal route. After another fork a few
kilometer further I finally see a sign. It tells me that I am on the wrong path now. I have to turn back
and now things turn out well. I arrive in Foncine le Bas, as planned.
I cycle through a landscape that is a little boring. I am going towards the Pic de l'Aigle
and the Cascades du Hérisson. Despite it is not the right direction (not to the north,
towards the Netherlands), something tells me that this mountain and these waterfalls will
be very beautiful. I have messed up the route a few times today by choosing obscure roads nad it
almost went wrong a couple of times. But I am a stubborn man sometimes. Once again Ichoose an
uncertain route. I want to reach the Pic de l'Aigle byfollowing another trail through the woods.
The road is worsening every kilomter. After a few kilometers, the road is unpaved road and after
a few more kilometers the road is really very bad, after a few kilometers more the road forks
in four branches and after a few kilometers after the first fork there is a second fork. After a few
kilometers the way is half way overgrown by bushes and after a few more kilometers, I
am standing before a forbidden access sign. I have to cycle back to the last fork. Here
I try a new branch, but again I get stuck. I decide to take one last chance. If I fail again,
I willhave to accept the return journey. Against all expectations, I manage to find a way out.
I reach a paved road and I am back in the civilized world. A few kilometer further is the Pic
de l'Aigle. To be honest, the Pic de l'Aigle experience is not too special. My intuition was mistaken
for once. Then the waterfalls. I leave my bike in a large tourist center and I descend in
fifteen minutes till one of the waterfalls. It shows a thin, trickling stream that falls down
ten meters. This is certainly not a once in a lifetime experience. The next series of waterfalls
is half an hour walking, tells the sign. I have had a bit too much trouble today for not the Pic de
l'Aigle and for the first cascade. I will not try the second, third and fourth cascade no more.
I climb back to my bike and descend to the Lac de Chalain, where I find a campsite. On the
internet I see that the Cascades du Hérisson certainly owe some beautiful waterfalls. I
apparently took a chance on the wrong waterfall. Today my male intuition must have
had a complete blackout.
Day 56: Lac de Chalain - Arbois - Dôle - Quingey - Ornans 155 km
It is a gray day. It does not rain and probably it will not rain the whole day, or maybe a drizzle.
I decide on a cultural programme today. I am riding over relatively flat terrain to the small toen of
Arbois. A few kilometer before the town there I am standing on the cliff of the Cirque du Fer de Cheval,
with beautiful views over the valley below. I descend into the valley and reach the pretty town of
Arbois. After some sightseeing I am riding on to the west. I have left the Jura behind me now and
I am cycling through nearly flat areas to Dôle, which is surely one of the most beautiful
little towns of France. The location along the Doubs is fantastic, the major houses of gray
stone are fantastic and the massive cathedral is fantastic, especially its extraordinary stained
glass windows. I stay in Dôle for two hours before I return to ride eastwards, back to the
hills of the Jura. The first thirty to forty kilometers are still flat. I see the Jura looming
in the distance like a mountain ridge. Then I reach the hills and there is a little climbing
involved. It is almost 7 o'clock as I reach the camping of Ornans. Ornans is a very
pretty little town too, but I will save that for tomorrow.
Day 57: Ornans - Lods - Pierre Fontaine les Varans - Belvoir - Col de Ferrière (592 m) - L 'Isle sur le Doubs 125 km
The Valley of the Loue is one of the most beautiful parts of the Jura and perhaps one of
the most beautiful parts of the whole of France. The Loue rises in the midst of steep
limestone cliffs and passes the magnificent little town of Ornans and the very attractive
villages Montgesoye, Lods and Mouthier-Hautepierre, which can match the most beautiful
villages of France. From Ornans I cycle through these villages to Mouthier-Hautepierre.
From there I climb to the plateau on a tiny, steep road. After an hour I am on the plateau
and reach the village of Haute Pierre le Châtelet. There is a viewpoint with stunning
views through the valley of the Loue.
Iam riding over the undulating plateau with the typical pastures of the Jura. There are
beautiful cloudy skies above me. In the lush green patures dozens of cows are grazing.
I reach Pierre Fontaine-les-Varans, where I acrap my lunch together in the local boulangerie.
I am having lunch in front of the Church. There is sitting someone, who is having lunch too.
It proves to be Luc, a Belgian cyclist, who is riding the Hundred Cols Tour. He has done most
of the cols now, only a few cols in the Jura and the Vosges areleft. The Hundred Cols Tour
takes in all well-known cols from the French Alps, the Pyrenees and the Massif Central
and a few cols in the Jura and the Vosges. The tour ends in the Northern Vosges,
in Saverne, in the Alsace.
Together we cycle further north. The first fifty kilometers we will be following the same
direction. Luc appears to be an experienced cyclist and his bicycle tours have brought him
in South Africa and in Southeast Asia. He is an excellent cyclist to be. He is more than 15
years older than me, but I do not need to adjust my velocity, even on the short climb to
the Col de Ferrière. On the descent of the col, a piece of my bike saddle breaks. With
a clatter the piece of aluminium bounces to the ground. There is no remedy here. With caution
I continue the descent. One kilometer later my pedalstart to make awful, creaking sounds.
I have the feeling that my bicycle starts falling apart. My bike is not a shiny new bicycle.
My bicycle has lived a 110,000 kilometers of faithful service, and sometimes had to perform
under the most difficult conditions. Luc and I arrive at the camping of L'Isle sur le Doubs.
I ride into the small town, looking for a bicycle shop. It is Saturday afternoon and it is
quite late. After some searching and with excellent help of the local residents and the receptionist
I manage to find a dealer in used bike parts. But there is neither a fitting saddle nor a pedal. It
is too late to continue to a bigger town and tomorrow the stores will be closed. This is a clear
case of wrong timing. But I decide that the risks are not too big. The worst thing that can happen
to the pedal is that it breaks. Then I have to walk. And the worst thing that can happen to
the saddle is that it breaks and that I am lying on the ground. That is certainly
bad enough to avoid but the chance is small. Moreover, I let the weak part of the saddle rest upon
the luggage. I guess that this solution will do for one day.
Day 58: L'Isle sur le Doubs - Lure - Col des Croix (679 m) - Le Thillot - Le Ménil - Col du Ménil (621 m) - Col d'Odéren (884 m) - Kruth - Markstein (1190 m) - Col de la Schlucht (1135 m) - Munster 160 km
The weather is still excellent as I exit from L'Isle sur le Doubs. I am on my own again.
I am traveling through the rolling countryside between the Jura and the Vosges. The last
few weeks I have cycled through mountainous areas nearly all the time. Now I hardly have to climb
and I feel like flying through the landscape. I am reaching Lure sooner than I expected.
I have done the first fifty kilometers before I start the first real climb. From Lure I
am riding up towards the Vosges. Soon the hills around me grow higher and higher. Only
after twenty kilometer the real climb begins. In the meantime, I have won altitude unnoticed
apparently, for I am on the top of the Col des Croix soon. Here I have the first views of
the green landscape of the Vosges. A short descent brings me on the foot of a new climb,
the Col du Ménil. The climb can be credited as the easiest climb that I know and which
is still appointed as a col apparently. The climb to the Col de l'Odéren is a real climb
but the highlight is the ascent of the Markstein. The climb almost overcomes 800 meter
altitude difference. The first kilometers are surprisingly steep. My pedal creaks horribly.
I try to spare the pedal but that is impossible on a long, steep climb. Fortunately, climb
is much flatter after the first kilometers. I am relieved when I finally reach the top. On
the Markstein I reach the Route des Crêtes. The heather is already in bloom. There are beautiful
views over the bare, rounded mountains. No trees do grow on the highest peaks of the Vosges.
The view to West is extraordinary. The valley of the Rhine is more than one thousand meters below. On the
other side of the broad Rhine valley lies the Black Forest. The view to the south the most special.
It is a very clear day and I can see the snowy peaks of the Alps. A moment of bliss. It is been six o'clock
in the evening now and I still have a bit of cycling ahead before I will reach a camping. I follow the
Route des Crêtes to the north. The Route des Crêtes was constructed by the army
and leads along the highest peaks of the long mountain chain of the Vosges. The road is
just above the tree line so that there are great views all the time. For me the route is not
surprising, because it is the third time that I am cyling this way. From the Col de la Schlucht
I go down towards the Alsace, where I have never cycled before. The sun is already behind the
hills and it is pretty cold now. After the descent I reach Munster, where I find a campsite.
Although Munster is very touristy, the camping is almost empty. The tourist season is over.
That promises something for the next few days as I will not be in tourist places all the time.
Day 59: Munster - Turckheim - Kaysersberg - Riquewihr - Ribeauvillé - Barr - Obernai - Boersch - Nideck - Wasselonne 140 km
From Munster I go down towards the Rhine Valley. The plan is to have aquiett, relaxed, touristy day.
I want to travel northward through the Alsace. I will see where I end up today. Or where
my bike will strand. The pedal is cracking louder and louder. Iam searching for a bicyle shop
in Kaysersberg. When I finally find a shop, I find it closed. In Ribeauvillé there are even two
repair shops. In the Syndicat d'Initiative I get the addresses. The first I cannot find
and eventually it appears that the bicycle shop does not exist. The next bicycle shop is
located just outside the village, but it is closed today.
The Alsace is a beautiful area for cycling. Everywhere are magnificent views of the hills
of the Vosges. Sometimes there is a huge castle on a high hill. On the lower slopes are
the vineyards. Small bike paths are winding through the landscape. And then there are the
numerous villages and towns: Turckheim, Niedermorschwihr, Kaysersberg, Kientzheim, Riquewihr,
Ribeauvillé, Barr, Obernai. These are the nicest places of today. But there will certainly be
other beautiful places as well, which I have missed today. The atmosphere in the Alasce is more
German than German, probably because the area is French now and not German. Like the Italian
South Tirol is more Auatrian than Austria and Gibraltar more English than England. Alsace:
that is half-timbered houses and lots of flowers. The houses are all equally beautiful,
albeit not always on the safe side of kitsch. It does not bother me. The only thing that bothers me, is
the squeaking and creaking pedal. In Obernai I try to find a bicycle shop again. One is apparently
closed for good. After a lot of searching I find the other bicycle shop of Obernai. But today is
Monday and Monday all repair shops seem to be closed.
After Obernai I decide to ride into the mountains for a change, although it is already 4 o'clock.
In the Syndicat d'Initiative of Oberhaslach I get a list of repair shops in the surroundingd.
There are certainly repair shops that are open today, but not within cycling distance. Hence
I will go on again. From Oberhaslach it is upward to the Nideck. A road carries up through a
dense forest with a lovely atmosphere. The road ends up to the old Nideck ruins.
Just before the summit, the pedal shifts into a new phase. Where the pedal until now
uttered a sort of free-jazz improvisations of beep-and cracking sounds, now it releases
grim sounds that are even louder than before, but it is the nature of the sound that
is truly horrifying. The pedal sounds more plaintive, desperate, like a long scream.
Occasionally the moaning sounds are interrupted by a dead silence. But these silences
do not last long; it is like breathing for air before the howlings return, more desperate
than ever. I am feeling downright uncomfortable. I try to cycle as gentle as possible,
but the pedal keeps on crying, wailing and screaming. The sparse, sharp silences feel like a
reproach. Why so you do this to me? After all these years of service? Tomorrow, in Wasselonne,
I bring you to the bicycle shop and there I will perform surgery, I whisper back. My soothing words
are answered by a creaking howl.
Day 60: Wasselonne - Saverne - La Petite Pierre - Sarre Union - Albestroff - St Avold 130 km
The camping of Wasselonne is nearly extinct. I am drinking coffee with one family that
is still having holiday, but also this family will go back home today. The season is
really over, despite the beautiful weather. After the coffee I am searchin for nike shops again.
The first bike shop is closed. But I have another chance, just outside the city. I am riding
on the busy national road to the bicycle shop. Closed again, this time because of holidays. I am
desperate. There is only one place with bike shops left in Alsace in the direction home and that is
Saverne. After Saverne there will not be any possibilities to change the pedal and the saddle
for a long time. The N4, the national road from Strasbourg to Saverne, is too busy for me, so
I leave the road for a tiny pathway through the hills northeast of the road. The beautifully dark
hills of the Vosges are making a striking contrast with the sweet corn fields. The serenity of
the countryside is shattered by the constant wails and whines of my pedal. This problem must
really be solved. I am glad to reach Saverne without problems. Luc was planning to reach Saverne too
today or tomorrow. Maybe I will meet him later on when I am crossing the Vosges. It is eleven
o'clock now, so I must hurry to find a bicycle shop. If I am too late, the shop may be closed
untill 4 o'clock and then I will not cross the Vosges today. I just cannot find the bicycle shop
of my list but then I coincidentally find another one. And fortunately they have the right
components. Twenty minutes later I am outside gain, with new pedals and a new saddle. And I am
able to continue, from now on in a normal way.
A serene silence. I am climbing up the hills of the Vosges for the last time. The Vosges in the north
are not nearly as high as in the south but the landscape is not less special. On top of the pass lies the
old town of La Petite Pierre. There could have been a nice view, but in a very short time
thick clouds have been collected in the west. It is serious business up there and suddenly a violent
storm is developing. Unfortunately I need to go in the direction of the clouds and I will
have to face serous head wind. It is seventy kilometers from here to St Avold, where a camping and
hotels can be found. I descend immediately, the circumstances will not improve. I have left the
forests of the Vosges now and I am in the meadows of Lorraine. Every kilometer is more difficult than
the one before with the rising storm. I reach Sarre Union. It has not rained yet, but the clouds in the
West are much darker than in the East. I decide to continue whatsoever. At least it is still dry now.
Forty kilometer to go now. It begins to drip. Thirty five kilometer to go. Ahead lies a very heavy rain shower
but that one will rush along. From the West even darker clouds are coming, but it has been like that
all the time and still there has not been any real heavy weather yet. Thirty kilometers now.
The howling wind rages across the landscape. A second heavy shower also misses target, this time the
storm is sailing along on the southern side. Still twenty-five kilometers. With a frenzied effort
I am able to get along. Only five kilometers and then the road will turn, then I will face
the wind from aside. In the West is an unearthly dark sky. Twenty kilometer yet. The curve. Now I
am cycling to the north. No head winds any more. The black sky is almost above me now, this time
I will not be lucky again. Yet seventeen kilometers. Sometimes I am almost blown off my bike at extreme
blasts. But still no rain. Fifteen kilometers. Then the rain finally begins. Immediately I get
the full treatment. Giant drops fall down in massive overload. Within one second I am completely
soaked. It is a great hedge of rain, I cannot see further than a few tens of meters. This is crazy,
on this busy road. I hide under a cover, but it is raining so hard that it does not offer a
solution. I decide to continue. The wind has strangely disapperead and the ridiculous
rain intensity is screwed down to a strong but normal rainfall intensity. The road has almost
become a river. My brakes do not perform too well in these ultrawet conditions. But the wind has stopped
now and I make a lot more progress. I reach St Avold and climb to the camping, which is also a
youth hostel. In this case I do not mind to avoid the camping in favour of a real dry place.
Day 61: St Avold - Bouzonville - Sierck les Bains - Schengen (Luxembourg) - Echternach - Vianden 160 km
When I wake up, it is dry but cloudy. There is a strong wind but no storm like yesterday. The
wind has turned from west to southwest. A favourable development for after fifty to
sixty kilometers to the west, I will ride to the north from the Luxembourg border.
And so I will probably have back wind from theLuxembourg border. It strikes me that
Lorraine is such a peripheral region. I have crossed this area a number of times, but
always from north to south. In those cases, it is pleasant to be here. It is France and
it has a southern feel if coming from the north. Now I feel the opposite. From Nice
to the Vosges I have cycled through beautiful landscapes. Lorraine is also interesting in a way
but introverted, gloomy. And then the dark, autumnal weather does not help to brighten things up.
There is a special atmosphere this area. I am not sure whether I like it or not. For a moment
the inward atmosphere is suspended. Bouzonville is a pleasant town with aa liveliness that is
missing in the surrounding villages. Then again, the atmosphere is just as introverted as
before. I am pedalling away the last French kilometers now. After almost nine weeks the journey
is almost over. Just a few days and I will be home. It would have been nice to get back home
in a festive mood with nice weather. But that will be highly unlikely.
I descend to Sierck les Bains, to the valley of the Moselle. From now on I have the wind in my back.
I am riding along the Moselle to the north and I cross the Luxembourg border at Schengen.
Luxembourg looks reaaly tidy and prosperous, especially if you are coming from the south and certainly
if you have traveled intensively in countries outside Europe. For me, the atmosphere is not
attractibe, although the scenery is beautiful along the Moselle. It strikes me in retrospect
that the peripherous atmosphere in Lorraine is more special for me than here. What is that
atmosphere? If you are not feeling in tune at a certain place at a certain time,
is that due to yourself? Or to the environment? Or is it a combination? I am convinced,
that this is an interplay. The combination is not optimal here. But I have the wind in my back and
I am flying over the roads without much effort. From Echternach the landscape is more scenic.
Vianden is a beautiful town. Here I go camping. I set the tent on the camping that is
virtually without guests. A long and heavy shower begins and it will not be dry any more.
Day 62: Vianden - Hosingen - Clervaux - Troisvierges - Ourthe (Belgium) - Vielsalm - Trois Ponts - Stoumont - Spa - Verviers - Teuven - Slenaken (Netherlands) - Gulpen - Wijlre - Stokhem 170 km
It has poured all night but as I wake up, it is dry. The few camping guests will all leave today.
The weather will be miserable the coming days: stormy weather with heavy showers so there
is no reason to stay. For me it is clear that there will be no nice strolls in the Ardennes:
I will go a straight and fast as possible. The campsites will be deserted. It will rain and storm.
It will not be too much fun, I am afraid. So I will try to get back home as quick as possible.
But I want to bike home for sure. To make the circle complete. I do not want to give up so close
to the end.
Through the valley of the Our I am riding north. After ten kilometers it starts to pour.
In Obereisenbach I leave the valley of the Our to climb to the plateau. Halfway through the
climb, the rain suddenly stops. For a short time I follow the busy N7 on the plateau from
Hosingen to the exit road to Clervaux. On the plateau the wind has free play. The wind is coming from
the west so at the moment the wind comes from aside. The heavy wind blasts nearly knock me off my bicycle.
I take the exit road to Clervaux and I head against the wind but soon the descent leads through a
forest, so I do not have toom much trouble with the wind any more. I reach a viewpoint with sights over
the beautiful little town of Clervaux. The sun breaks through for a few seconds just as
I arrive. I take a coffee break to collect courage, then I travel on again. I climb to a
new plateau. For the first time I am riding with full head wind on the plateau, I am gaining
only very little progress at the expense of big efforts. The Ardennes: that means endless
vistas and gray clouds that are hurrying over the countryside. Occasionally a shower is
visible on the horizon. Barely fifteen minutes does it take before the shower is above me and
another fifteenminutes later, the shower has already gone. But in the meantime I am completely
soaked. But the same wind is drying my clothes quickly too. I cross the Belgian border and
descend into the valley of the Ourthe. A new climb brings me at the broad N68 to Malmédy.
On the descent to the Amblève another ruthless rain shower comes down on me. All splash
and I can hardly see anything. In a hidden chips stand I take the opportunity to have shelter.
After a lunch break I continue, the shower is nearly over. The N68 is too busy, way too broad,
but the road leads through the valley of the Amblève and is quite flat. And very
important: there is not so much wind. And the path leads straight north, exactly the right direction.
I cycle through Vielsalm to Trois-Ponts. I continue to follow the Amblève to Stoumont.
Following the road along the river any further does not make much sense. It means a detour
and extra headwind to overcome. It is better to climb the Stoumont. There is no shower to be
seen now, which is beneficial for the descent. I prefer to desecnd on dry roads. The roads
in the Ardennes can be quite steep and descents on very wet, ateep roads is difficult and unpleasant.
If I am on top, I see that a new shower is coming in my direction. I am just down and the shower
breaks loose. I reach Spa and I cycle through Theux to Verviers. The places look bleak and gray,
especially if you are used to Mediterranean atmospheres. I get lost in Verviers. So there proves to
be one similarity between Italy and Wallonia at least. The wind is only increasing now. Where does
this end? It has been one of the most extreme cycling days so far and I hope that it does not get
even worse. In Hervé the road is closed and I have to makke a detour over the busy N3,
an altogether very unfavourable direction. Now I am riding with the storm in the back
to the east. I hardly need to pedal and sometimes I even have to use my brakes to avoid
uncontrolled velocities. I am flying over the road, unfortunately still in the wrong direction.
I had the idea of cycling to Maastricht to take a small hotel there, but now I am blown almost
ten kilometers aside to the east. I decide to stay in one of the villages of southern Limburg.
I reach the Dutch border at Slenaken. I cannot find a cheap hotel and cycle further to
Gulpen where every hotel appears to be full. In Stokhem I find a camping. The bad
weather seems to be over and there are suddenly big blue pieces of sky. The wind has not
really decreased but the camping is exactly on the wind free side of the hills, so this
place is not affected by the stormy winds. I am as good as alone at the campsite, the only
tent is mine. But I am glad that I have found a campsite. It is beginning to get dark.
I take a quick shower and in the dark I cook my meal. After dinner I soon go to bed: it is
far too cool to be out.
Day 63: Stokhhem - Valkenburg - Meerssen - Stein - Roosteren - Maaseik - Thorn - Ittervoort - Nederweert - Geldrop - Eindhoven - Best - Boxtel - Esch - Vught - Den Bosch - Zaltbommel - Geldermalsen - Culemborg - Houten - Bunnik 210 km
I get up by first light. I want to cycle to my house in Bunnik in one day. That is certainly 200
kilometers, so I will need every minute of the day. It is still stormy weather but it
is dry. While it is overcast, it does not look like heavy rains will enter soon. I am riding
out of the Limburg hills, and along the Meuse I cycle to the north. Occasionally I pass
pretty villages or a tiny church. The wind is more back wind than head wind and I make good
progress. From Maaseik I temporarily follow the Belgian side of the Meuse. I cross the Dutch
border again at the white village of Thorn. The wind slowly turns from west to northwest and
that changes everything. Now I have the head winds virtually all the time. I try to plan
passages to the west in forests. This works pretty well untill the village of Mierlo. I had planned
to cycle through Nuenen in order to circumvent Eindhoven. But the road is closed
and so I still find myself searching a way through the city of Eindhoven. Through Best,
Boxtel and Vught I travel on to 's Hertogenbosch.
The wind suddenly begins to swell to a storm. Again. In extreme blasts I am almost ripped of my bike.
All the time I need to be concentrated. Dark clouds are flying in from the northwest.
This is all wrong. It is still fifty kilometers to my home. I would like to be home now,
I would like everything to be over, no worries anymore. The first shower has missed. Still
forty-five kilometers. Full wind. Sometimes I am coming to a screeching halt. It takes
a madman effort to continue. Zaltbommel. Still forty kilometers, the wind is gathering and
the first rain starts falling. Geldermalsen. Thirty kilometers to go. A few drops. Dusk.
Still twenty-five kilometers. A huge downpour. Alone in the flatlands. I can barely match
up against the wind. Culemborg. Twenty kilometers. The ferry on the Lek is already there.
Quickly. Achieved. It is almost dark. The ferry is on the other side. I cycle through
the flat polder to Schalkwijk. I am cycling through the heavy rain torments in the blackness
of the night, fighting my way through the rain gusts. Fifteen kilometers. The bridge
over the Amsterdam-Rhine canal. Houten. Only ten kilometers. The extreme wind has
stopped now but the rain will not stop. It's raining very hard now but it is
not a cloud rupture anymore. The last five kilometers. Nearly there. It is a strange
way to finish such a journey. No opportunities to celebrate the accomplishment. The last
kilometer. I reach Bunnik. The last four days were very extreme with these stormy
circumstances. Never have I felt so rushed during my travels. And that on the last days of
the trip. Until the last minute. But it is over now. I see my house. I have made it.
The end. |
